JOnce a generic term for an array of Italian cheeses, today stracchino refers almost exclusively to crescenza -like fresh, cow's milk cheese with a washed rind and a soft center. Present in diverse forms in Lombardy since the 12th century, the stracchino family of cheeses was originally made in the fall from the milk of cows migrating south to avoid the cold of winter. The herds tended to produce a thinner milk, owing to fatigue endured during the trip. As the cows were " stracche ," or "tired," the diminutive " stracchino " was used to describe the cheese their milk produced. Taleggio, robiola, and quartirolo (or stracchino quadro ) are just several of the cheese varieties that fall under this heading.

In the Kitchen
Generally appearing in small squares or rectangles, the milky-white stracchino cheeses are highly-spreadable, and almost always have a supple, completely edible skin. There is even a skimmed, low-fat variety. At Christmas time in Lombardy, this particular variety is traditionally eaten accompanied by " mostarda ," a special Cremonese preserve of candied fruits in a white mustard syrup.

Superb on pizza, in risotto, or baked into focaccia, stracchino cheeses can also be more simply enjoyed alongside slices of toasted bread or high quality crackers.

Storing
This cheese is at its best when used within a few days of purchasing. For optimal flavor, serve at room temperature.

Buying Tips
Currently, stracchino and the nearly identical crescenza are produced almost solely on an industrial basis, and are available all over Italy. Though not widely circulated, in the United States they can be found in specialty cheese shops or Italian markets.

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