Egyptians cooked them wrapped in parchment, and Greeks and Romans believed them to be good aphrodisiacs and medicines. Costly and rare, truffles have been celebrated by epicures throughout the centuries. Although they are rather unattractive, these irregularly shaped, wrinkled, rough fungi have an intense, delectable taste and an aroma that escapes definition.

The less accessible-yet most popular-are the white truffles. Found only in Piedmont, Italy, they are best savored uncooked. First, they should be brushed and wiped with a cloth, then sliced over salads or risottos. Remember, the slices should never be submerged in the dish, which would drown their aroma.

The black truffle is the most commonly eaten type. It grows in Southern France, Spain, Tuscany, and Umbria. Unlike white truffles, black truffles release their aroma when they are cooked. They should also be brushed and wiped before use. Some people also peel them and save the peel to flavor stuffings and broths.

Truffles grow underground near the roots of trees-usually oak, but also beech and hazel-and never grow beyond the range of the trees' branches. The only efficient method of finding these hidden treasures is using animals that have been trained for several years. Usually truffle hunters are accompanied by hounds, but pigs have a keener nose than dogs. Once the hound has scented a truffle, the hunter digs a hole, being careful not to touch the fungus before confirming its ripeness. If it isn't ripe, the hole is closed; if it is ripe, the truffle is dug up. This slow, intense harvesting process is part of the reason why truffles are so prized-and so expensive.

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