Herbs & Spices: Chives

Chives (Erba Cipollina)

The Herb
A more subtle member of the onion family, the tasty chive plant grows long tube-shaped leaves that are peppery, yet pleasant and mild in flavor. By definition, the word chive suggests the whole plant, whereas the plural, chives, refers specifically to the spicy leaves used for seasoning. While the origin of chives is unknown, plant historians maintain the hypothesis that they were first found in Central Asia. Today, grown practically everywhere in Europe (predominately in northern Europe, Greece, and Italy), the chive plant is hearty and easily cultivated. So much so, it was popular even among ancient civilizations. The Romans cooked with chives, which are mentioned in the illustrious cookbook of Apicius. The spice was repopularized during the Middle Ages by Marco Polo, who is said to have carried the spice back to Europe from China. By 1806, chives had already made their way across the Atlantic and into America. There, the Dutch settlers, chive enthusiasts, sowed cow pastures with seeds from the plant in the hopes of creating chive-flavored milk.

The plant's characteristic bright green stalks and tiny purple flowers (also edible) are as decorative as they are delicious. The vibrant colors make either part of the plant an eye-catching addition to any dish.

In the Kitchen
The delicate flavor and vivid color of chives naturally predispose them for use in spreads, herb butters, and dips, as well as in salads and as a flavoring for vinegar. Soaking the blossoms in vinegar will give a soft pink tone to the solution, making it an attractive gift when bottled in a decorative glass. Fresh chives, finely chopped, are often sprinkled over soups, vegetable stews, and sauces (especially those with an egg or yogurt base).

Though chives usually stand alone, chervil, tarragon, and parsley tend to combine well with the herb. Together, the four-ingredient mixture is known as fines herbes, and is highly utilized in French cuisine to gently flavor cold and warm dishes, such as salads, scrambled eggs, fish, and poultry. Cress, cicely, or lemon balm can be added to enhance the combination. (Adding garlic to the mix, however, is not recommended, as it runs the risk of overpowering its peers.) Another primary application of chives is in cheese, where it has gained particular acclaim in cottage cheese, cream cheese, and other mild varieties.

Another primary application of chives is in cheese, where it has gained particular acclaim in cottage cheese, cream cheese, and other mild varieties.

Tips
Chives are almost always used fresh as they lose a large portion of their flavor in drying. Industrially, dried chives are produced by the slightly less destructive method of lyophilization (freeze-drying); but, fresh or deep-frozen chives (e.g., in winter) are the preferred choice. Boiling, frying, or baking chives will destroy most of the vegetable's quiet aroma.

Healing Properties
Chives contain significant amounts of vitamins A and C. They are hailed as an antibiotic and antiseptic, and have a reputation for stimulating the appetite and facilitating the digestion of fatty foods. The juice of the plant is sometimes used as an insect repellant, and has fungicidal properties effective against scab and mildew.

Superstition
The Chinese herald chives as a jewel among vegetables, including them in both remedies and recipes. In ancient times, the peoples known as gypsies used chives in fortune telling, while in Rome the herb was gathered to relieve pain from sunburn or sore throat. Other superstitions recommended placing the plant around the house to deter evil and ward off disease.