Prosciutto

When it comes to cured Italian hams, the choice can be bewildering. Most people know and love Prosciutto di Parma, but there is competition on the horizon in the form of Prosciutto di San Daniele. This ham that has been cured in the northeastern region of Friuli Venezia-Giulia for centuries, and is prized for its pink meat, its creamy, smooth texture, and salty-sweet flavor.

The word "prosciutto" tells us a great deal about the production of this type of cured meat. Prosciutto is derived from the Latin perexuctus, which translates to "deprived of all liquid." The salty yet sweet flavor and velvety texture that characterizes Prosciutto di San Daniele hams is the result of a drying process that dates back to the second century B.C. All types of prosciutto are cured through the application of salt, exposure to sunlight, and aging.

Prosciutto di San Daniele is cured in the same fashion as Prosciutto di Parma, Prosciutto di Carpegna, and the Tuscan Prosciutto Crudo. Pork thighs are selected and suspended in well-ventilated or refrigerated rooms for 24 to 36 hours. The fat and hide is then trimmed, and the salt curing process begins. Prosciutto makers massage and apply salt to the meat, repeating the procedure once a week for a month. The hams are then washed, brushed, and dried either in sunlight or indoors, where temperatures never exceed 59° F. Once the prosciutti are dried, they are inspected for flaws and are coated with a mixture of flour, lard, water, and pepper.

The next step is the aging period: San Daniele hams must be aged for at least 12 months, but some are aged for up to two years. During this time, the Prosciutti lose up to 30% of their original weight. While the ingredients and conditions that go into the production of Prosciutto di San Daniele are identical to other types of Prosciutto Crudo, it is the unique climatic conditions of the Friuli region, with its higher altitudes and drier air, that give Prosciutto di San Daniele its unique flavor and texture. Another feature that distinguishes Prosciutto di San Daniele from other types of prosciutto is the fact that it is cured with the bottom part of the leg bone in, a feature that makes for a very rustic-looking ham.

You can use Prosciutto di San Daniele in any recipe that calls for Prosciutto di Parma, but remember that cooking will alter Prosciutto di San Daniele's delicate flavors. You should opt for recipes that celebrate Prosciutto di San Daniele in its simplest state: Prosciutto di San Daniele is delicious when served raw on crusty country bread with salad greens and a soft, sweet cows' milk cheese like Taleggio or Montasio. Balance its saltiness with wedges of cantaloupe or fresh figs, or serve as a salad, topped with radicchio and shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano. Avoid pairing Prosciutto di San Daniele with other powerfully flavored foods so that none of its delicate flavor is lost. Accompany Prosciutto di San Daniele with a dry but not-too-aromatic white wine, such as a Friulian Tocai or a Prosecco Valdobbiane-Conegliano.