Provolone
An all-purpose delicacy used for cooking, grating, and even in desserts, provolone (like provola) is a typical Italian cheese produced in the southern half of Italy, especially in the provinces of Cremona, Brescia, and Piacenza. Provolone comes in an incredible number of sizes, shapes and varieties: tronco-conica (a pear-shaped form created when the cheese is hung by a cord to dry), round, spherical, ovular, parallelepiped, and sausage-shaped, to name a few. Even the ingredients can vary, depending on artisan and origin.
The differences between provola and provolone are, in fact, slight. Provola is a soft pasta filata (pulled or stretched curd cheese), characteristically produced with one weight and form—that of a typical ball (or tronco-conica) of mozzarella. It can be made from whole cow’s or buffalo’s milk, or from a mix of both. Like mozzarella, it can also be lightly smoked. There is no mention of aging. Provolone, on the other hand, is defined as pasta filata housed in a thin, smooth crust, which is golden-yellow in color. It is often coated in a layer of wax. On the inside, the cheese is creamy white or straw-colored (based on time spent aging), slightly flaky, and hole-less. It is generally made from whole cow’s milk, and less often from buffalo milk.
The Two Main Types of Provolone
There are two main types of provolone: dolce, aged for 2 months, and
piccante, aged for about 12 months. Provolone dolce, or “sweet”
provolone, is milder and paler in color. Generally made from 100 percent cow’s
milk, it tends to have a smooth, almost silky texture and a delicate flavor,
making it an ideal table cheese. Its external yellow crust is frequently marked
“dolce.” Coagulation occurs using the rennet from a calf
only. Provolone piccante is a spicy cheese, with a sharper taste and
a stronger, more pungent aroma. It is coagulated primarily by using the rennet
from a goat or lamb, and is aged longer (as evidenced by its darker appearance).
Although 12 months is the most common upper limit for aging, some cheese sleuths
swear they have sighted piccante varieties aged as long as 2 years.
In the Kitchen
Provolone makes a wonderful addition to gnocchi, omelets, small tarts, or gratin,
and can also be served al naturale over salads dressed with olive oil,
salt and pepper. Pizza and bruschetta both benefit from a melted smothering
of grated provolone. The piccante variety is at its best when savored
alongside slices of fresh pear.
In the United States, provolone has become a classic ingredient of submarine
sandwiches.
Buying Tips
Though the most authentic (and accurate) provolone varieties are Italian-made,
provolone is also currently manufactured in the United States.
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