Sardinia

Shepherding and fishing have always been central to the economy of Sardinia, so many of the specialties from this region feature lamb, sheep's milk cheese, and fish. Bottarga, pressed mullet roe, is sliced paper thin and drizzled with Sardinian olive oil as an antipasto, or tossed onto malloreddus, tiny ridged gnocchi, as a first course. Fregola, a semolina pasta shaped into pellets, is cooked in soups with cockles or herbs, or boiled and layered with pancetta, tomatoes, and Pecorino.

A protagonist of Sardinian cooking, saffron, is the world's most expensive spice. It is hand-picked from the crocus flower, each of which yields only 3 threads, and is actually grown on the island and used in many different dishes, from pasta to fish. Only a tiny amount of it is enough to add a pungent and earthy flavor. Add saffron at the end of the cooking process to preserve its aroma and flavor. Saffron is available in threads or in powder form. Both are good, even though powdered saffron is sometimes altered with other ingredients. Before adding saffron threads to any dish, it should be dissolved in a small amount of warm water, and then added to the dish.

Typical breads include the thin and crisp pane carasau and carta da musica, which become pane frattau when combined with eggs and tomatoes. Soups are hearty: suppa quatta, made with lamb and Pecorino and baked, is a perfect example.

Cagliari is famous for its burrida, fish poached in an aromatic broth with onion, carrot, celery, parsley, and lemon, then served with a flavorful garlic sauce stretched with mild vinegar and thickened with crushed pine nuts or walnuts. Meat is typically roasted, often on aromatic wood; the roast suckling pig is succulent, as is trattaglia arrustia, lamb liver grilled on wild olive branches.

Desserts include papassine rich with dried fruit and redolent with orange, and sebadas, large round ravioli that are filled with Pecorino and grated lemon or orange zest, then fried and drizzled with warm, slightly bitter honey from strawberry plants. Do try a glass of liquore su mirtu, a myrtle liquor, after dinner, and Vermentino di Sardegna, Torbato, Nuragus, Cannonau, Monica, Vernaccia, Mandrolisai, or Anghelu Ruju with dinner.