Campania

More than any other region in Italy, Campania is a nexus of opposites. On one side of Mount Vesuvius there's Naples, a free-spirited metropolis with one of Europe's highest population densities. On the other side of the volcano, water buffaloes roam on virgin prairies with hardly a trace of development in sight. Some of the most well-preserved ancient ruins in the Mediterranean dot the coast, just miles away from modern factories that supply the whole country with cars and pasta. The standard of living dips and rises drastically too-Naples' historic residential areas are extremely modest, while the international elite frolic in seaside mansions on the Amalfi Coast.
Sandwiched between the 2,500-foot Mount Vesuvius and the sea, Naples is one of Italy's most active ports. The city was first inhabited by the Etruscans, and later settled by the Greeks, who deemed it to be a strategic point in their burgeoning empire. Naples subsequently passed through the hands of Southern Italy's main occupying forces, all of whom left their mark. The Germans built the city's university in the 13th century, the French constructed Gothic churches, and the Spanish brought the city to prosperity with trade and intellectual activity. For most Italians, Naples is an embodiment of all Southern Italy's most famous (and infamous) traits: it's sunny, passionate, and sometimes lawless; alive with tradition and devoted to il mangiar bene ("eating well"). Native napoletani take pride in their reputation for defying the rules. When Italy imposed a mandatory seat belt law, drivers wore t-shirts with a seat belt picture printed across the chest instead of actually buckling up. Naples' neighborhoods range from the elegant heights of the Vomero, with views of the Gulf of Naples, to the densely packed Quartieri Spagnoli, named after the soldiers who lived there under Spanish rule. Many of Naples' most beautiful sites lie at the water's edge, including the fortress-like castle, the former royal palace, and the expansive Piazza del Plebiscito, with an elegant colonnade lining one of its curved edges.

Moving south through the densely populated towns at the base of Mount Vesuvius, the road narrows and starts to snake up seaside cliffs. Road signs are few and far between-with only one road, they are hardly necessary. In this wilder part of Campania, the town of Amalfi is an elegant gem, a well-to-do distant relative of its northern neighbor, Naples. With cascading houses, terraced vineyards, and a clear, blue sea at its feet, Amalfi has long been queen of Campania's seas. The town's regal status dates back to the 10th century, when it was one of Italy's main "seafaring republics," with a fleet of ships and dominance in international trade on par with Pisa, Genoa and Venice. To this day, the rival sailing cities still compete in an annual regatta. One Amalfi sailor, Flavio Gioia, left a permanent mark on seafaring by inventing the compass. Amalfi's main cathedral weaves together many of Campania's chapters in history. Its panels of interlocking, pointed arches reflect Arab design, while its strong-shouldered structure comes from the Norman (northern French) influence in Southern Italy's architecture. Meanwhile, ancient Roman pillars hold up the church's roof from the inside. The best way to appreciate the Amalfi coast is by boat. Embarking from the port of Salerno, you'll first pass Ravello, perched on a peak between two deep valleys. Green stripes of vineyards and orchards lead across the rock face to Amalfi, and curve with the shore to Positano, a miniature town with spectacular views. Many of Positano's narrow streets are so steep that they have steps carved into the paving stones.

more about Campania >>