Hearth and home
In contrast to the gilded sophistication of Trieste, most of Friuli has historically been a rustic, rugged land. Its food reflects these origins. The most potent symbol of Friulian cooking is undoubtedly the fogolâr, the open hearth with a conical chimney used in homes and restaurants for grilling beef, lamb, goat, poultry, sausages and mushrooms. A traditional fixture on the fogolâr is a bubbling pot of pale polenta made from the white corn that grows on the Friulian plain. Friulians say that polenta "sings, snores, blows and smokes" over the fogolâr. Hearty soups are another local staple, as important to Friulian cooking as pasta is to many Southern Italian regions. Some common soup ingredients include fasôj (small red beans), cabbage, barley, mushrooms, turnips, tripe and pork. The lay of the land contributes heavily to the flavor of many Friulian edible specialties. Montasio cheese (used most often in frico, a thin pancake of grated cheese) has a particular nuttiness attributed to the mountain pastures where the dairy cows graze. The town of San Daniele, resting on a hill between mountains and a river, provides a perfect microclimate for curing ham. Prosciutto di San Daniele, often considered Italy's finest prosciutto crudo, is able to be cured with less salt than other prosciuttos because of the town's ideal humidity, wind and temperature. Sweet and sour flavors are combined in many regional dishes, a result of Slavic and Germanic influence in the kitchen. Ravioli-like pockets of pasta dough called cjalzons feature any number of sweet-and-sour fillings, including spinach, rye bread, potatoes, raisins, mint, brandy and chocolate. Gulasch, a hearty beef stew, is a direct descendant of the famous Hungarian dish while cevapcici (spicy grilled sausages) are also popular across the border in the former Yugoslavia.
Austria left its mark on Friulians' palates in the form of a collective sweet tooth. In Trieste, indulgent Viennese-style pastries elicit feelings of municipal pride and provide a frequently used excuse for a mid-afternoon coffee break. Tender apple strudel is loaded with raisins, pine nuts and cinnamon; another version called strukli incorporates potatoes in the dough and adds ricotta to the filling. Friuli's excellent wineries make fine grappa, but the most authentic way to end a hearty Friulian meal is with a shot of Yugoslavian firewater called slivovitz, a clear brandy made from plums.

email this article printer friendly