Le Marche
Italy's
east-coast region of the Marches serves a different role for each
visitor. For beach fans, it's a magnetic summer destination, where
popular resorts alternate with quiet, sandy coves along the Adriatic.
For art aficionados, the walled city of Urbino is a rich location
for revisiting the aesthetic grace and rich intellectual life of a
Renaissance court. Many Italians have been to its capital, Ancona,
to board long-distance ferries to the Greek islands. And anybody who
has eaten porchetta, a garlic-and-herb-stuffed, spit-roasted pork,
has unknowingly paid homage to Marchesan cuisine, which claims the
dish as its own.
The region's strange name comes from the Germanic word marka, which
in medieval times meant a region bordering on the Holy Roman Empire.
For much of the Middle Ages, the Holy Roman Empire and the Church
fought over the region. The Italians took marka and called the region
Le Marche, which was converted into the similar-sounding English name,
the Marches.
Artistic life
For an under-visited part of Italy, the Marches has given support
and inspiration to a surprising number of master artists, musicians
and writers.
Renaissance painter Raffaele Sanzio (Raphael) was born in the northern
city of Urbino. Some of his earliest frescoes are on display at the
house where he was born, which is now a museum. Urbino was also the
birthplace of the prolific architect Donato Bramante, who designed
dozens, if not hundreds, of churches and other buildings across Italy
during the Renaissance. The Marches' rich patrons and high-budget
churches also attracted outside artists such as Piero della Francesca,
who developed his mathematical approach to perspective while working
in Urbino.
The region's status as a center for art and culture was due to the
rise of independent power-holding families in the Middle Ages. Starting
in the 12th century, the Marches' remote, rippling terrain was cordoned
off into sprawling feudal lands, and was developed and primped by
patrons who poured their family resources into building and art projects.
The names of the aristocratic families who developed the region still ring in Italy's ears like the names of long-lost royalty. Duke Federico of Montefeltro established a thriving court in Urbino. One of his courtiers, Baldassare Castiglione, documented its social life in his 1528 work, The Book of the Courtier, which became an instant best-seller-a "Miss Manners" for the aspiring Renaissance hot-shot. The Montefeltro's ducal palace in Urbino is now home to the National Gallery of The Marches, with masterpiece paintings by Raphael, Piero della Francesca, Titian and others.
A miraculous church
In 1613, the Marches came under the control of the Papal States,
ending the spread of independent dukedoms and drawing the region more
tightly into the Church's sphere of influence. By this time, many
cities had already established great churches.
The most famous of the Marches' numerous holy sites is the Santuario
della Santa Casa, or the Sanctuary of the Holy House, in the town
of Loreto. The holy house is said to have belonged to the Virgin Mary.
Her dwelling in Palestine was reportedly uprooted by angels at the
end of the 13th century to save it from heathen pillagers, and plunked
down in the middle of the Marchesan wasteland. Many top artists of
the 14th and 15th centuries worked in the sanctuary, including Bramante
and painters Melozzo da Forlì and Luca Signorelli. The miraculous
transfer of the house has made Loreto's church an important pilgrimage
site for centuries.





