Le Marche - page 2
Italy's
most classic landscape
With beaches, rolling orchards and a string of mountains, the Marches
rolls all the elements of Italy's landscape into one package. In his
1957 book Viaggio in Italia, the writer G. Piovene declared, "if
you want to identify Italy's most typical landscape, you'd have to
choose the Marches
Italy, with its landscapes, is a distillation
of the world; the Marches [is a distillation] of Italy."
Over 100 miles of coastline stretch down the eastern shore, from white
sand beaches like the "velvet beach" in Senigallia to towering
black cliffs that curve around blue coves. Beyond the occasional inland
city, the interior is largely uninhabited. Countless acres of virgin
woods, especially oak forests, reflect the relative lack of development
in the region. Famously thick woods used to cover the region. Now
they occupy 16 percent, which still makes for larger tracts of unexplored
land than in neighboring Tuscany and Umbria. Protected indigenous
animals such as Appenine wolves, foxes, Orsini vipers (which share
a name with an equally infamous medieval family) and golden eagles
have diminished in recent years as forests are cleared, but can still
be seen on hikes in the Appenines and in the rougher Sibylline mountains.
Carved out underneath the Marches' extensive forests is a breathtaking
series of caves littered with shiny, enamel-like stalagmites and stalactites
thought to be 1.4 million years old. The Frasassi Caves were fully
explored in 1971 and were immediately judged to be the largest in
Europe. The first chamber, called the Ancona Abyss, is approximately
600 feet high, 500 feet wide and 400 feet long-large enough to fit
your average medieval cathedral comfortably inside. Serious spelunkers
can join guides for in-depth excursions of the caves; there are also
frequent walking tours for those who prefer not to crawl through the
caves' tight spaces.
Surf and turf
There are two major themes in the region's cuisine: mare e monti (sea
and mountains). The active fishing industry provides one-tenth of
Italy's national fish catch and one-seventh of its national shellfish
supply. Every coastal city in the Marches is proud of its brodetto,
a humble name (meaning little broth) that indicates what is usually
a very lavish fish soup. Il brodetto di Ancona, from the region's
capital, contains no less than 13 types of fish and seafood. Moving
inland, the focus turns toward high-quality produce, fruit and meat.
A strong organic farming movement has taken hold in the Marches and
is supported by the regional government, although many of the local
conventional growing techniques are de facto organic. These natural,
pesticide-free techniques have been applied to apple, peach and cherry
orchards, as well as grains, olives and grapes. Organic pasta is widely
available, made from specially grown wheat that's stone ground by
hand. Some winemakers produce organic red and white wines, and there's
even local beer brewed from organic barley.
The cuisine of the region centers around many of the most classic
Central Italian flavors: homemade egg noodles such as tagliatelle;
flavored, slow-roasted meats such as the garlic-and-herb-stuffed pork
known as porchetta (which some claim originated in the region); elaborate
baked pastas such as vincisgrassi, made with fresh egg noodles, meat
sauce, creamy béchamel and Parmigiano-Reggiano; mild pecorino
(sheep's milk) cheese with hints of herbs and acorn; other cheeses
such as the mixed cow's and sheep's milk Casciotta d'Urbino; plus
rabbit, veal and black truffle dishes.
The Marches' foods have an unusually prominent emphasis on poultry-both
game birds such as quail and pigeon, and farm-raised birds such as
its famous free-range roosters.





