Sicily - page 3
Dining al siciliano
With artful pastas, well-stocked seas of fish and an abundance of
almond and ricotta sweets, Sicily has rightly earned its reputation
as a great place to eat. Why is the food so good? Much of it has to
do with the variety of foreign products brought into Sicilian kitchens
over the centuries. Also, the island has always been particularly
fertile. Vegetables grow heartily; eggplant is one of the local favorites.
Sicily was known as the granary of Rome in ancient times, providing
much of the nearby Roman Empire with wheat. Even today, elaborate
pasta timbales are a Sicilian holiday tradition; the fish couscous
made in Trapani uses the island's wheat crop in an Arab-inspired way.
Even arancini, the fried rice balls stuffed with meat sauce, cheese
and other fillings, were inspired by the Arab tradition of eating
rice and meat in the same bite. (By the way, some of the best arancini
in Sicily are sold at the snack bar on the Messina-Reggio Calabria
ferry). With the sea on all sides, piatti a base di pesce (fish-based
dishes) rule Sicily's menus. The range of fish species is impressive
though tuna and swordfish can be found almost anywhere. They are both
served in dozens of ways, including thin grilled steaks, even thinner
slices of raw fish carpaccio and triangles of smoked fish as an appetizer.
Smaller fish such as sardines and anchovies are often used in pastas.
With such an abundance of fresh fish, most of Sicily's meat dishes
have never reached the same degree of fame (with the exception of
the classic chicken cacciatore).
Citrus special
Many sweet and savory dishes draw on the island's superb citrus fruits.
Sicily provides 50 percent of the oranges eaten in Italy and devotes
plenty of space to lemon orchards, especially in the rolling terrain
around Etna, Catania and Syracuse. Sicily's red-fleshed blood oranges
are the most distinctive. All three main varieties-tarocco, moro and
sanguinello-are loaded with vitamin C (more than regular oranges),
and the chemical that colors them red has been found to fight allergies
and viruses.
Sicily's pasticcieri (pastry chefs) have come up with an amazing array
of desserts over the years, mostly based on citrus fruits, nuts and
ricotta. Tube-shaped cannoli are one of the most common favorites.
The classic cassata packs candied fruit, ricotta and pistachios into
a sponge cake base. Almond paste makes up a category of its own, with
thousands of variations on almond cookies and fanciful marzipan fruits.





