Trentino-Alto Adige is blessed with geographic diversity. It is covered with lakes, forests and snowcapped mountains as well as castles and lovely towns. In winter, the skiing is unparalleled, and in the spring and fall, hikers take advantage of the extensive network of trails to explore remote mountain hamlets. The northern section of the region was ruled by the Austrian Hapsburgs, then incorporated into Napoleonic Italy in the early 19th century. After the defeat of Napoleon in 1815, the entire area once again came under Austrian control as it remained until the end of World War I when it was reunited with Italy. Today, Trentino-Alto Adige is divided into two sections: Alto Adige (Südtirol in German), in the north, which has retained much of its Austrian heritage, and Italian-speaking Trentino, in the south.

Alto adige
The first part of Italy that you see when traveling south from Austria is Alto
Adige, a mountainous area home to both German and Italian traditions and anguages. The Dolomites there have an extraordinary eighteen peaks that rise above 10,000 feet, perfect for skiing. For those of us without skis, the spa town of Merano (Meran) makes a good stop. Europeans flock to the village for mineral baths and other spa treatments and to visit the lovely gardens. Merano's castle, Castello Principesco, is still furnished as it was in the 15th century. Moving east from Merano is Bressanone (Brixen), Alto Adige's oldest city. The narrow, winding streets are lined with colorfully painted houses, arched medieval bridges and arcades. Both the duomo and the nearby Palazzo Vescoville are exquisitely decorated. The ground floor of the palazzo houses a collection of wooden nativity scenes. Moving southwest, the next major city is Bolzano (Bozen), the capital of Alto Adige. This picturesque city is filled with Tyrolean-style buildings with colorful frescoed façades, elegant Renaissance palazzi and medieval arcades. Bolzano's duomo is a striking Gothic cathedral with a green and yellow mosaic roof. Six miles south of Bolzano is Termeno, which is well-known for its dry white wine, Traminer Aromatico. The cuisine in Alto Adige borrows from German and Austrian traditions, and typical dishes include goulash, crauti (sauerkraut) and canederli or knödel (bread dumplings). Soup is usually served as a first course, while pasta and rice are accompaniments to meat. Alto Adige is also known for its delicious speck (salted and smoked pork). Desserts, such as strudels and krapfen (cream puffs filled with ground poppy seeds), are German-inspired.

Trentino
Moving on to the more Italian section of the region, you might not immediately realize the difference. However, as you continue your descent into Trentino, you will notice a shift in the language, architecture and food, as German is replaced by Italian and biergartens are replaced by enoteche. Cavalese, in the Fiemme Valley, is best known for its 13th-century Palazzo della Magnifica Comunità. It was the seat of the governing council in medieval times and has a frescoed exterior and medieval paintings inside. The nearby hill town of Cembra is famous for both the Piramidi di Segonzano, ancient 100-foot tall pillars, and Müller Thurgau, its delicious white wine. The lush surrounding forest is home to Alpine flowers, birds and other wildlife.
Southwest of Cembra is the ancient Roman city of Trento, the capital of Trentino-Alto Adige. It was the seat of the Council of Trent (1545-1663), the infamous group that tried to stop the Protestant Reformation. Some of the Council's meetings were held in the 13th-century Romanesque duomo. The southern tip of Trentino-Alto Adige is significantly different from the mountainous northern terrain, and its proximity to Lake Garda gives it a more Mediterranean feel. Rovereto is one of the lovely towns on Lake Garda and is home to a castle that was converted into a war museum after World War I. The Campana dei Caduti (Bell of the Fallen), which can be seen from the top of the castle, was made from melted-down cannons after World War II and is rung daily to remember those who were killed during the wars. The food in Trentino focuses on polenta, which is served with potatoes, cheese, bacon or sautéed onions. Black polenta (made from buckwheat flour instead of cornmeal) is served with butter and anchovies. Desserts lean toward Veneto-style treats such as chifelini, a Carnevale sweet made with potato dough and filled with jam. Despite the region's litigious history, Trentino-Alto Adige's beauty and the variety of food, languages and traditions make it very special.

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