Cultivars

In Italy, there are more than 350 types of olive trees, or "cultivars." Through the centuries, many types of olives have been selected deliberately and maintained through cultivation. These "cultivars" are difficult to classify because of the many different names given to the same plant in different regions and countries.

Italy's National Center for Research (CNR) is currently growing about 850 different cultivars for such diverse purposes as flowers, wood, table olives, and oil production. The type of olive tree affects the oil's flavor and the yield, which is also influenced by latitude, climate, and terrain. In general, olives from Southern Italy produce the most oil per tree: An average tree in Apulia yields about 20 liters of oil, while a tree from Tuscany will only yield a liter or so.

The following is a list of some of the most popular Italian cultivars that can be found in American supermarkets and gourmet stores.

* Frantoio - Native to Tuscany, this cultivar can be found throughout Italy and in almost all the olive growing countries of the world. Its widespread cultivation is explained by its consistently high yield and, above all, by its high quality and the refined, aromatic, savory oil that it produces. Unfortunately, these olives have a low resistance to adverse weather conditions and they ripen late in the season.
* Moraiolo - Another Tuscan cultivar, Moraiolo is also spread throughout Italy and other olive producing Mediterranean countries. This type of olive has a high oil content and the oil produced has a flavorful and powerful taste. Its tolerance to weather conditions and wind is high and the olives ripen at mid-season.
* Leccino - Found all around Italy, Leccino olives fill the tables of many Italians both in fruit and oil form. Particularly noted for the tree's tolerance to adverse weather conditions and some common diseases. It gives a consistently high yield.
* Pendolino - Another Tuscan variety, these olive trees adorn the immediate area surrounding Florence. The delicious olives ripen at mid-season and produce an exquisite olive oil that pairs perfectly with local specialties and other rich dishes.
* Bella di Cerignola - Native of Apulia, these huge green or black olives are characterized by a sweet taste and soft flesh. The black ones are more flavorful and easier to pit than the green, which have a denser texture. They are delicious eaten in a colorful and rich antipasto dish, maybe accompanied by the small, black, wrinkled, and salt-cured Gaeta olives.

Remember that the flavor of different olive oils is affected by different factors, even within the same variety-the region and the climate where they're grown, when and how the olives are harvested, the temperature at which they are stored, the material of the container in which they are stored, and how long they stay on the market shelf. Try all the different kinds you can, then pick your own favorite!

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