This dish is known as bistecca fiorentina, and the deceptively simple ingredient list hides one of the most revered and disputed dishes in Italian cuisine. The key to a good bistecca is the quality of the steak itself-in Italy, the steaks come from Val di Chiana beef that has been slightly aged, and weighs at least 21/2 pounds per steak. The American steak that most closely approximates bistecca is a Porterhouse.

• 1 Porterhouse steak, about 23/4 pounds, at least 1-inch thick
• salt and freshly ground pepper
• extra-virgin olive oil
• lemon juice

Make sure the steak is at room temperature. Prepare a charcoal grill, and allow the coals to burn down until covered with a layer of gray ash. (You should see no flames.) Alternatively, heat a grill pan over very high heat. Place the steak on the grill or in the pan. Cook for 5 minutes, and turn over. Sprinkle cooked side with salt, and allow to cook for 5 more minutes. Remove from grill, and salt the other side. Season with a few grindings of fresh pepper, and serve with extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice at the table. Serves 4

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