Recipe from Signature Pasta, published by The Italian Table.

Called Spaghetti col Rancetto in Abruzzo, this pasta sauce- a variation on Rome's famous amatriciana- relies on fresh marjarom for its unique character. The final flourish of Pecorino Romano ties all the flavors together.

• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1 onion, thinly sliced
• 3 ounces slab bacon, diced
• 2 cups canned chopped plum tomatoes
• 1 tablespoon chopped marjoram
• salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 pound spaghetti
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano

Heat the olive oil in a heavy pan, and add the onion and bacon. Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring constantly, or until the onion is translucent and the bacon has rendered its fat and become opaque; do not allow the bacon or onion to brown, or the dish will acquire an all together different character.

Stir in the tomatoes, and cook for 10 more minutes. Add the marjoram, and season with salt and pepper; the sauce should be quite peppery and fragrant from the marjoram. Keep warm.

Meanwhile, bring 5 quarts of water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and salt, and cook until al dente. Drain, then pile into a warm serving dish.

Pour the hot marjoram-laced tomato sauce over the top, sprinkle with half of the Pecorino, and fold gently to mix. Adjust the salt if needed and serve immediately, topped with the remaining Pecorino. Serves 4