Called Bucatini all'Amatriciana, this pasta is a staple in Roman trattorias. In Italy, guanciale, the cured meat from the cheek of a pig, is used rather than the more ordinary pancetta. Avoid bacon, however, since it is smoked and gives the dish a completely different flavor.

• 1/4 cup extra vigin olive oil
• 4 ounces pancetta, cubed
• 1/2 onion, minced
• 3 cups canned chopped plum tomatoes
• salt
• 1 dried chili pepper, crumbled (optional), or freshly ground black pepper
• 1 pound bucatini
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano, plus extra

Heat the olive oil in a heavy saucepan and add the pancetta. Cook over medium-low heat until the pancetta takes on a little color without burning, about 10 minutes. Stir in the onion and cook just until it is wilted and golden, then add the tomatoes, salt, and chili pepper or freshly ground black pepper, and cook over moderately high heat until the sauce reduces, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring 5 quarts of water to a boil. Add the bucatini and salt and cook until al dente; drain. Toss with the amatriciana sauce, transfer to a heated serving dish, and sprinkle with the Pecorino. Serve hot, passing additional Pecorino at the table. Serves 4

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