Destinations: Ancona

Ancona, The Marches

Widely recognized as a modern port city, and not as a "tourist town," Ancona thrives quietly, its authenticity undisturbed by throngs of camera-toting map-holders or souvenir shops. The city maintains a flourishing port, a busy airport (with flights to Croatia, Slovenia, and Greece), an acclaimed University, and active commerce. For these and other reasons, Ancona is a good stop for visitors who wish to see how an "unspoiled" Italian city lives and breathes when going about its daily business.

History
Established on the picturesque peaks of two hills, old Ancona was settled in the 4th century B.C. by Greeks colonizers from Syracuse. Subsequently, the city was conquered by the Romans, and in 115 A.D. Emperor Trajan erected the harbor walls and the marble ceremonial arch standing at the end of the dock. During the Middle Ages, the Church, Venetian Republic, and German Emperors all exercised their power over Ancona, barring the complete success and independence of the city. In 1532, the city fell under the jurisdiction of the Papal States, and remained as such until the Unification of Italy (in 1860).

Sights
Most of whatever historical Ancona has survived exists atop Monte Guasco, which offers appealing views of the sea and "newer" Ancona below. The old city sights include the Piazzale del Duomo and the 11th century Cattedrale di San Ciriaco at its center, whose Romanesque framework forms the shape of a Greek cross. The church was erected on the site of an early Christian basilica, which was itself the site of an earlier Roman temple to Venus. Ancona's 16th century Palazzo Ferretti is home to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale delle Marche—the Marches' foremost archeological museum—which holds an impressive collection of Roman bronzes, Greek vases, and the Ionian work, Dinos of Amandola. Meanwhile, in Palazzo Bosdari, a gallery of momentous paintings—including works by the artist Titian—accounts for the city's principal art museum, the Pinacoteca Comunale Francesco Podesti.

Transportation
Trains leave from Piazza Rosselli to Bologna, Milan, Paris-Lyon, Pesaro, Rimini, Rome, and Venice.

Ancona also offers ferry service to Croatia, Greece, and Northern Italy. (Schedules are provided by Stazione Marittima, located on the waterfront, just off Piazza Kennedy.)