Fish Sagre in Camogli, Liguria
First Saturday Night, May annually

Camogli is a small seaside village, with houses built practically on top of each other in a profusion of yellow, pink and red. It has yet to be discovered by tourists, and its small alleys, steep steps and tiny courtyards are used by the fishermen who have spent their lifetimes serving the sea. If you were to pass by on the first Saturday night in May, you would be faced with the astonishing sight of a green dragon attacking a burning windmill. That Sunday, you might be equally surprised to see a 1,500-pound frying pan in the harbor, resting on 28 gas cylinders, cooking literally a ton of fish.

Legend has it that in 1952, several citizens of Camogli were stranded on the sea, in danger of drowning. Their lives were spared, however, which the fishermen attributed to the good graces of the town's patron saint, San Fortunato. They decided to prepare a feast for him, and the tradition of an enormous fish feast was started, eventually growing large enough to feed the entire town.

Large bonfires the night before the fish fry involve a giant windmill that is burned along with a huge wooden dragon with a green paper skin. It is not entirely clear what each stage of the festival represents, but clearly there is the interplay between good and evil and the triumph over danger. Afterward, music, dancing and fireworks inevitably erupt on the town's beaches and streets.

For Sunday's fish fry, 700 liters of oil are brought to a boil and 1 1/2 tons of small, silvery fish are dusted with 120 kilos of flour. They are lowered into the oil in one of 28 baskets, cooked, and handed out to the crowd. The spirit of camaraderie and good fortune pervade the town and everyone toasts to the health of each other and of San Fortunato.

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