Matera, Basilicata

If you are eager to burrow into Italy's rich historic past, there's no finer place than Matera. The city is the most extraordinary and intact example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean region. Located in the southern half of Basilicata's rugged, mountainous terrain, the territory and its sassi (ancient homes carved right into the rock) have been occupied since the early Palaeolithic period. The striking and strangely captivating caves are Matera's number one claim to fame, and have earned the city the nickname "The Heritage of Humanity." Relatively isolated, Matera remains the only provincial capital in all of Italy yet to be connected by FS trains. However, thousands of years of enthusiastic denizens attest to the city's transcendental allure and living local culture, both of which help make a visit Matera more than worth the trip.

The Sassi
Though their exact origin has been buried in the past, the oldest sassi are about 7000 years old, and are carved from a soft limestone in various styles. The more recent caves (from 2000 B.C. and 1000 A.D.) are more elaborate in their design, and cluster near the 6th century A.D. chiese rupestri (rock churches), which remain largely unmodified. Many of these chiese house prized remnants of original 11th and 12th century frescoes.

Cuisine
Two of Matera's most typical specialties include favetta con cicore (a tasty soup made from beans, celery, chicory, and croutons, mixed in olive oil) and the frittata di spaghetti (a pasta dish prepared with anchovies, eggs, bread crumbs, garlic, and oil). Other local delicacies are served up in Matera's various and well-priced ristoranti and trattorie.

Sights
Aside from the essential tour of the ancient sassi and rock churches (such as San Pietro Caveoso, Santa Maria d'Idris, and Santa Lucia alle Malve), another must-see is the city's beautifully carved Apulian-Romanesque duomo. From the Piazza del Duomo, head down Via Ridola past the haunting Chiesa del Purgatorio to the Museo Ridola, and take a peek at some of the area's treasured archeological finds. Prehistoric and early Classical art is on display in the museum's 17th century monastery, and there is an additional room dedicated to early 20th century excavation techniques.

Culture
For a sample of true Materan culture, visit the city during the last week of June or the first week of July, when the Festa di Santa Maria della Bruna takes place. Open-air markets, firework displays, and a variety of musical performances make this annual Festa an unforgettable civic celebration.

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