The Essence of Nebbiolo

The Nebbiolo grape is unique in character and grows well only in the soil and climate of Piedmont. Although many attempts have been made to plant Nebbiolo in other parts of the world, it resists other terroir and remains loyal to its homeland in the Langhe hills of northwestern Italy. The Piedmontese are strong traditionalists, proud of their heritage and the indigenous grape varieties of the region. And in return the Nebbiolo grape remains true to its great legacy and is strongly loyal to its origins.

DOCG Barolo and DOCG Barbaresco are the king and queen of all, made of 100 percent Nebbiolo. Barolo is traditionally austere, concentrated and complex in style, having spent a minimum of two years in oak. It's a firm tannic wine with black fruits and a notable trait of tar. And like all age-worthy reds, it usually needs additional aging after purchase to mellow and develop.

Barolo is the most powerful expression of the Nebbiolo grape, while Barbaresco is more aromatic and feminine in style and expresses Nebbiolo's brighter essence. It spends only one to two years in oak. Barbaresco's elegant style shows all the class and rich, satisfying flavors of Nebbiolo but is less brawny in tannins. And thank goodness, you usually don't have to wait forever before drinking it.

But here too, times are changing, as new technology, barrique aging and visionary winemakers such as Angelo Gaja, Giorgio Rivetti and the Cerretto family are creating contemporary Barolos and Barbarescos with a fresher fruit style that is more approachable at a younger age. Still, don't be shy about trying the classic wines of Bruno Giacosa and Giuseppe Cortese-both are creating magnificently complex and memorable wines.

Other Nebbiolo-based wines to try are DOC Gattinara, DOC Ghemme and DOC Carema-all delicious reds at a less hefty price. Nebbiolo pairs well with roasted meats, ossobuco or stew. It is absolutely stunning with smoked meats such as ham, salumi and even franks 'n' beans, dishes with truffles or a big pot of gooey fondue. Although the dichotomy of Piedmont continues between traditionalist and avant garde, one thing remains constant. It is filled with great winemakers, making some of the greatest wines of Italy.

* 1999 Bruno Giacosa Nebbiolo di Alba "Valmaggiore" $22 Classy and bright, fresh aromatics of red berry fruits, medium-bodied, smooth palate, with hints of cedar, smoke, rose and mint.
* 2000 Pio Cesare, Nebbiolo d'Alba $31 Delicious, subtle bouquet of red berry and dark plum fruits, medium bodied, with a nuance of earth, smoke, leather, vanilla and spice.
* 1998 Ceretto, Barbaresco "Asij" $37 Beautiful and silky, perfumed aromatics of cherry and berry fruits, medium-bodied, shows elegance and layers of dried fruit, violet, herb and earthy spice-full, lingering finish. * 1997 Barale F.lli, Barbaresco $37 Full and pleasant bouquet of red cherry fruits, full-bodied, firm tannins, notes of smoke, leather, spice, violets and vanilla, still youthful-satisfying finish.
* 1998 Prunotto, Barbaresco Classico $40 Charming, ripe raspberry and cherry fruits, medium-bodied, harmonious palate, with notes of rose, chocolate and toasty oak-lovely finish.
* 1998 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo $42 Attractive bouquet of dark cherry fruits, full-bodied, with notes of dried fruit, rose petals, tar and licorice-persistent finish.
* 2000 Poderi Colla, Barbaresco $43 Smoky and savory, ripe cherry fruits, medium-bodied, succulent palate with layers of spice, leather, rose petals and subtle toasty oak-satisfying finish.
* 1998 Elio Grasso, Barolo Ginestra "Casa Mate" $48 Concentrated and full, dark cherry and blackberry fruits, full-bodied, firm tannins, layers of smoke, cedar, spice and mint, still youthful-persistent finish.
* 1999 Poderi Colla, Dardi le Rose Bussia Barolo $48 Masculine and full, dark cherry and plum fruits, full-bodied, firm tannins, layers of smoke, cedar, violet, chocolate, allspice and vanilla-long finish.
* 1999 Moccagatta, Barbaresco Bric Balin $53 Serious yet sensuous, complex aromatics, ripe plum and dark cherry fruits, medium-bodied, full palate of sweet tannin, spice, cedar, smoke and violet-persistent finish.
* 1998 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo "Cannubi" $58 Big and dreamy, floral allspice bouquet, ripe black fruits, full-bodied with complex layers of smoke, truffle, chocolate and vanilla-long, satisfying finish.
* 1999 Elio Altare, Barolo $60 Intense and inviting, luscious dark cherry and plum fruits, medium-bodied, lively palate with complex layers of smoke, dried fruit, lavender and spice-persistent finish.
* 1999 Pio Cesare, Barbaresco $63 Enticing and sophisticated, with delicate fruit and smoky aromatics, supple plum, dark cherry and raspberry fruits, full-bodied, with a touch of violet, spice and dried cherry fruits-excellent finish.
* 1998 Michele Chiarlo, "Rabaja" Barbaresco $63 Elegant and supple, rich dark cherry and blackcurrant fruits, medium-bodied, full round palate, shows delicate layers of smoke, cocoa, lavender and allspice-long finish.
* 1998 Fontanafredda, "La Rosa" Barolo $85 Classic, supple bouquet of ripe cherry and plum fruits, medium-bodied, contains a full, fresh fruity mouth-feel with sweet tannins, lovely notes of spice, rose and mint-long, satisfying finish.