All About Sangiovese

Sangiovese constantly reinvents itself throughout Italy. It is ubiquitous and prolific and has even gone all the way west to California's Napa Valley. But without a doubt, its origins are distinctly Tuscan.

Vibrant and late-ripening with a hint of bitterness, Sangiovese is often blended with other grape varieties, which makes it difficult to categorize in any generic descriptive way. It is the prominent varietal of DOCG Chianti Classico, but you will also find Sangiovese blended into many Supertuscans, DOC Carmignano, DOC Rosso Conero in the Marches, and of course in the very celebrated DOCG Torgiano in Umbria, made famous by the Lungarotti family.

A clone called Sangiovese Grosso (meaning large) and/or Brunello is found in the prestigious wines of DOCG Brunello di Montalcino and DOC Rosso di Montalcino. When used for Montepulciano's famous DOCG Vino Nobile it is locally known as Prugnolo Gentile. In Emilia-Romagna, the subvariety Sangiovese Piccolo (or small), makes up the wines of DOC Sangiovese di Romagna, a much lighter, more quaffable style, made for early consumption. Most magnificently, Sangiovese flourishes in the terrain of the Maremma area in Tuscany, where it shows its unique character in the austere, distinctive wines of DOC Morellino di Scansano and DOC Bolgheri.

* 2001 Spezieri, Col D'Orcia ($10) Lovely, vibrant cherry fruits, soft, spicy aromatics, medium-bodied; made nicely
* 2000 Monte Antico ($10) Charming, pure, cherry fruits, medium-bodied, with a touch oak and pepper, made well; easy to enjoy.
* 2000 Sangiovese di Toscana, Conti Contini ($11) Pleasant, fresh raspberry and berry fruits, medium-bodied; made tastefully.
* 2002 Barco Reale di Carmignano, Capezzana ($13) GREAT VALUE Succulent, concentrated dark berry fruits with good intensity, medium- bodied, a subtle expression of earth, spice and oak.
* 1999 Chianti Classico "Isassi," Melini ($16) Smooth plum and cherry fruits, subtle aromatics of violet, medium-bodied, contemporary in style, sweet tannins and a touch of vanilla.
* 1999 Chianti Classico, Borgo Salcetino ($19) Delicious, fresh cherry and blackberry flavor, medium-bodied, with notes of vanilla, leather and dried herbs.
* 1999 Carmignano, Tenuta Le Farnete ($20) Soft, blackberry, raspberry and currant fruits, rural, slightly spicy, herbaceous aromatics, medium-bodied, with a touch of leather, tobacco and vanilla; light finish.
* 2000 Chianti Classico "Le Masse di Greve," Lanciola ($21) Velvety, ripe, dark berry fruits, medium- to full-bodied, soft tannins with a hint of leather, spice, mint and vanilla; persistent finish.
* 2000 Rosso di Montalcino, Castello Banfi ($22) CROWDPLEASER Classy, pure, dark cherry fruits, medium- to full-bodied, harmonious palate, sweet tannins, with a lovely balance of spice, plum and toasty oak.
* 2000 Chianti Classico, Castello di Bossi ($23) Jammy, rich, succulent dark berry fruits, full-bodied, ample across the palate, with a touch of spice, violets, toasted oak and vanilla; good length.
* 1998 Chianti Classico Riserva "La Selvanella," Melini ($24) Ripe, dark berry fruits, complex aromatics of clove, tar and spice, full-bodied, nicely balanced, with notes of almond and vanilla; good long finish.
* 2001 Morellino di Scansano, Belguardo Poggio Bronzone ($25) VERY INTERESTING Opulent, dense, black cherry fruits, warm fragrant aromatics, full-bodied, with a hint of spice, mineral and leather; very good length.
* 2001 Bolgheri Rosso "Alfeo," Ceralti di Walter Alfeo ($30) HOT BUY Intense, juicy, blackcurrant and dark cherry fruits, full-bodied, concentrated yet still young, powerful alcohol, soft tannins, with notes of cassis, licorice, cedar and vanilla; persistent finish.
* 2000 Crognolo, Tenuta Sette Ponti ($34) Big, lush and beautiful, with fragrant ripe dark berry fruits, full-bodied, well-structured, traditional in style, firm tannins with a touch of spice, herb, clove and vanilla and a nice long finish.
* 2000 Cum Laude, Castello Banfi ($36) TREAT YOURSELF Scrumptious, bountiful, jammy dark fruits, full-bodied, a contemporary style with complex layers of smoke, leather and fresh spice, silky tannins; persistent finish.
* 1999 Chianti Classico, Castello di Brolio ($43) TOP PICKVoluptuous, mouthwatering, sweet cherry fruits, full-bodied, elegant and well balanced, with a delicate nuance of spice, earth and well integrated oak, shows stylish Chianti typicity and a long finish; beautifully made, not to miss!
* 1998 Badia a Passignano, Chianti Classico Riserva, Antinori ($48) Ripe, medium concentrated sweet cherry fruits, medium-bodied, firm tannins, fragrant vanilla and licorice notes; long finish.
* 2000 Cepparello, Isole e Olena ($50) EXCELLENT BUY Exotic, mouthwatering dark berry fruits, full-bodied, excellent structure, sweet tannins, essence of earth, smoke, tar, vanilla, powerful but still young; long persistent finish.
* 1998 I Sodi di San Niccolò, Castellare di Castellina ($60) GORGEOUS Exquisite, beautifully balanced, full of fresh dark fruits, medium- to full-bodied, woven with complex aromatic layers of cherry, cedar, tea, licorice and cassis. Sangiovese at its aristocratic best, shows strength without being overpowering, a wine with finesse; long, harmonious finish.