Limoncello is a lemony liqueur that hails from the area around Naples.

• 2 recipes sponge cake

For the limoncello cream:

• 9 egg yolks
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon limoncello
• 1 cup whipping cream

For the garnish:

• 21/2 cups whipping cream
• 11/4 cups sugar
• 8 seedless lemons, sliced 1/4"-thick
• 16 mint sprigs

To layer:

• 1/2 cup limoncello

Make the sponge cakes, cool on a rack, and cut each into 3 horizontal layers with a serrated knife. You will need 5 layers out of 6 for this recipe.

Meanwhile, make the limoncello cream: Beat the egg yolks, the sugar, and the salt in a large stainless steel bowl over a pot of simmering water. Whisk in the limoncello. Whisk vigorously for 5 minutes, or until the mixture is thick and triples in volume. Cool by transferring the bowl to a larger bowl filled with ice, whisking constantly.

Beat the cream until soft peaks form in an electric mixer. Fold into the limoncello mixture; refrigerate the resulting mixture until needed.

Make the garnish: Beat the cream until soft peaks form in an electric mixer; add 1/4 cup of the sugar by the spoon; beat until firm. Refrigerate.

Bring 1 quart of water to a boil. Drop in the lemon slices; cook 2 minutes and drain. Repeat 2 more times, changing the water each time. (Repeated boiling gets rid of the lemons' inherent bitterness.)

Combine the remaining sugar and 1 cup of water in a 3-quart pot. Set over medium heat. Bring to a boil. Drop in the lemon slices; cook over medium-low heat 15 minutes, or until somewhat soft, without stirring. Remove to a tray with a slotted spoon; spread out in a single layer. Layer the cake: Place the bottom layer of one cake on a serving platter. Brush with 2 tablespoons of the limoncello using a pastry brush. Top with one-quarter of the limoncello cream, spreading it almost to the edges. Add another bottom cake layer. Brush with 2 tablespoons of the limoncello. Spoon on one-third of the remaining limoncello cream, spreading it almost to the edges. Add a middle cake layer, brush with 2 tablespoons of the limoncello, and spoon on half of the remaining limoncello cream, spreading it almost to the edges. Add another middle cake layer, brush with the remaining 2 tablespoons of limoncello, and spoon on the remaining limoncello cream, spreading it almost to the edges. Finish with a top cake layer, turning it upside down first. Using a metal spatula, cover the top and sides of the cake with the whipped cream. Top with the candied lemons and mint and serve. Serves 16

Variation: Crush 1/2 pound of amaretti cookies in a food processor and pat them onto the sides of the cake after you have covered the cake with whipped cream, then festoon half-slices of candied lemon around the top edge of the sides of the cake.

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