Version One: Fresh Rosemary

• 4 double-cut pork chops
• 1/4 cup fresh rosemary leaves, roughly chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 cup dry white wine or water
• 4 small branches of rosemary for garnish

Make 2 to 3 slits 1 inch wide by 1/2 inch thick along the side of each pork chop. In a small bowl, combine the rosemary leaves and garlic with enough of the olive oil to form a paste. Stuff the rosemary paste into the slits.

Heat the remaining olive oil over medium heat in a heavy skillet large enough to hold all the pork chops in a single layer. Season the chops with salt and pepper, and put into the hot pan. Cook until the pork is done, 8 to 10 minutes per side, turning once during cooking. Remove the pork from pan, and place on a serving dish. Make a tent with aluminum foil to keep them warm. Put the pan back on the stove over high heat. Immediately add the wine or water, scraping up the browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Let reduce by half.

Serve the pork chops topped with the sauce and garnished with the rosemary sprigs. Serves 4

Version Two: Dried Rosemary

Because dried rosemary is much sturdier than fresh, it should be completely crushed to release its flavor. We suggest using a food processor to make the rosemary/garlic paste.

Follow the first recipe, omitting the fresh rosemary and instead substituting:

• 2 tablespoons dried rosemary

Make slits in the pork chops as directed. Place the dried rosemary and garlic in the bowl of a blender or food processor. Pulse together with enough of the olive oil to form a paste. Stuff the rosemary and garlic paste into the slits, evenly distributing it between chops. (The paste made with the dried rosemary will be more concentrated than the fresh, so a little will go a long way.) Cook as directed. Serves 4

Version Three: Rosemary-Flavored olive oil

If you're out of fresh herbs and your spice cabinet is bare, you can still make the pork chops by using infused olive oil.

Follow the first recipe, omitting the fresh rosemary and instead substituting:

• 2 tablespoons rosemary-flavored olive oil

Make the slits in the pork chops as directed. Mix the garlic with enough of the unflavored olive oil to form a paste. Stuff the garlic paste into the slits. Cook the chops as directed. After removing them from the pan and setting them aside, place the pan back on the stove over high heat. Add the water or wine, and allow to reduce by half.

Whisk in the rosemary-flavored olive oil to make a pan sauce and check the seasoning. Pour the sauce over the chops and serve. Serves 4

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